Getting to grips with sail reefing and furling systems is critical for any sailor. These systems are what allow you to safely reduce your sail area when the wind starts to pipe up. Your choice—whether it's traditional slab reefing, a fancy in-mast system, or something in-between—comes down to your budget, the kind of sailing you do, and what you need from your boat. While good old slab reefing is reliable and gives you great performance, furling systems are all about ease and convenience, a definite plus if you're sailing short-handed.
Picking the right reefing and furling system is one of the biggest decisions you'll make for your sailboat. It’s a choice that impacts both your safety and your performance on the water. From my years of sailing offshore, I can tell you there’s nothing worse than fumbling with your sails in a building squall. A smart system can make a tough situation manageable, but a bad one can turn a drama into a full-blown crisis. My aim with this guide is to break down the options so you can make an informed choice.
Sail reefing is simply the act of making your sails smaller. It's a safety precaution you take as the wind starts to pick up. By reducing the sail area, you cut down on the power and the heeling force, keeping your boat under control and preventing damage to the rig. This isn't about slowing down; it's about sailing safely and efficiently in heavier conditions. If you want to dive deeper into the nuts and bolts of how to shorten sail, we've got a comprehensive guide on the topic: Reefing a Sail: The Ultimate Guide to Control & Safety at Sea.
The mainsail is the engine room of your boat, so the system you use to control it is hugely important.
System | Pros | Cons | Best For |
---|---|---|---|
Slab Reefing | Reliable, robust, excellent sail shape, low cost. | Requires leaving the cockpit in some configurations, manual effort. | Performance sailors, long-distance cruisers. |
In-Mast Furling | Convenient, easy to use from the cockpit, infinite sail reduction. | Prone to jamming, compromised sail shape, complex & expensive. | Coastal cruisers, short-handed crews. |
In-Boom Furling | Good sail shape, cockpit operation, can be fitted with battens. | Heavy boom, adds weight aloft, more complex & expensive than slab. | Cruisers wanting convenience and better performance. |
These days, almost every modern sailboat has a roller furling system for its headsails (like the jib or genoa), and for good reason. The sail wraps around a foil on the forestay, which lets you roll it in and out from the safety of the cockpit.
Key features of headsail roller furling:
It's worth remembering, though, that a partially furled sail just isn't going to have the same efficient shape as a properly sized one. For serious racers, that's a deal-breaker, and they'll carry a bunch of different jibs. But for a cruising sailor, the sheer convenience of a roller furling system is hard to beat.
The cost of a new system can be all over the map. A basic slab reefing setup is the cheapest by far, since you're mainly just buying lines, blocks, and clutches. In-mast or in-boom furling systems, however, will cost you an arm and a leg, often adding tens of thousands to a new yacht. Installation is a complex job, so the labour won't be cheap, either.
Maintenance is key for all of them. For furling systems, you've got to keep an eye on the swivel and bearings and make sure your halyard tension is just right to prevent jams. With slab reefing, it's more about making sure the lines run freely and checking that the reefing points on your sail are in good nick.
Picking a reefing and furling system for your boat is really a balancing act between how much performance you want, how safe you want to be, and how easy you want things to be. While slab reefing is still the gold standard for getting the most out of your sails, the peace of mind and simplicity that modern furling systems offer are undeniable, especially for those of us who go cruising. If you’re often sailing with a small crew or just want things to be as effortless as possible, a well-cared-for furling system will be a game-changer. But if you value top-notch sail shape and total reliability above all else, you can’t go wrong with the time-tested simplicity of slab reefing.
And while we've focused on systems for your main and headsails, don't forget there are also furlers for performance sails. You can learn all about them in our guide on Handling Asymmetric Spinnakers & Code Zeros: A Guide to Top-Down Furling.
Article written by Dick McClary, RYA Yachtmaster & Yachting Journalists Association (YJA) member.
Can I convert my boat from slab reefing to in-mast furling?
It's possible, but it's a huge and costly job. You'll either have to replace the mast or do a major refit, so you'll definitely want to leave that to a professional rigger.
How do I prevent a headsail from jamming in a furling system?
The most common reason for a jam is that the sail hasn't wrapped evenly. Just make sure you're pulling the furling line in smoothly and with consistent tension, and check that the halyard isn't too tight.
Is it possible to single-hand a boat with slab reefing?
Absolutely. If you have a well-designed slab reefing system with all the lines led back to the cockpit, it's very manageable for one person.
Do all sailboat sails require reefing?
Any sail that you use in a range of wind conditions needs to be reefed or furled. That includes your mainsail, most headsails, and some light-wind sails like a code zero.
How many reefs do I need on my mainsail?
Most cruising mainsails have two or three reef points, typically set up for different wind speeds, say 15, 20, and 25 knots.
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