Finding the Best Anchor for Your Sailboat

In a Nutshell...

A reliable sailboat anchor is, without a doubt, the most important piece of safety kit you’ll ever buy. But it's not just about having an anchor; it's about having the right one, properly sized for your boat and suited to the anchoring conditions you’ll face. In this guide, we'll navigate the world of sailboat anchors, exploring designs, proper usage, and the modern technology that's revolutionising anchoring for cruisers everywhere.

Spade

CQR

Fisherman or Yachtsman

Bruce

Danforth

ROCNA

Delta

Bugel

What to Look For in a Good Sailboat Anchor
Do All Anchor Designs Perform The Same?
How Do I Choose The Right Anchor Size?
What About The Anchor Windlass?
Summing Up: The Anchor & The Sailor
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

What to Look For in a Good Sailboat Anchor

The evolution of anchor design has been pretty significant, moving from traditional patterns to sophisticated new shapes. My own experience has taught me that a good anchor has to consistently tick a few key boxes:

It's Got to Set Fast: An anchor has to dig in quickly and efficiently the moment you feel the tug from the boat. If it takes too long to set, it might just skate over the seabed or get tangled up in weed, failing to grab properly. The ultimate test is when you have to anchor quickly in a crowded bay, with no room for a do-over.

Deep Burial Is Key: The deeper an anchor buries itself, the better the holding power. That's because the resistance comes not just from the anchor itself, but from the sheer weight of the seabed on top of it.

High Holding Power: Every anchor will eventually drag if the force is big enough. The best ones, though, give you exceptional resistance before they start to move and, crucially, stay buried and reset themselves instead of just flipping out. Your anchor's holding power in sand is typically 10 to 20 times its weight, so a 15kg anchor may hold no more than 300kgf before it begins to budge. That’s a force a 10m yacht could easily experience in a 40-knot wind.

Holds in a Shifty Wind or Tide: When the wind shifts or the tide turns, your anchor is put through its paces. It needs to be able to pivot and realign itself to the new direction without breaking free. Lots of older designs have a habit of capsizing or tripping themselves when this happens.

Do All Anchor Designs Perform The Same?

I wish! Not all sailboat anchors are created equal. Different designs excel in specific seabeds, while others are more versatile. Over the decades, I've used almost every type of anchor, and I can tell you the differences in their performance are very real.

The Old Guard: Tried and True, But With Their Quirks

The older generation of anchors has been trusted by sailors for generations but has notable limitations.

The Fisherman Anchor: This is an ancient design, also known as the Admiralty Pattern. It’s the best choice for holding in rocks or thick kelp because it can snag on irregular surfaces. However, it's a real pain to retrieve and stow, so it’s not really a go-to for a primary anchor on a cruising boat.

The CQR Anchor: Nicknamed the 'Plough' anchor, the CQR has been a popular choice since the 1930s. It stows well in a bow roller and its hinged shank allows it to handle wind shifts. But its holding power is often considered a bit of a compromise compared to modern designs.

The Danforth Anchor: This lightweight design provides exceptional holding power in soft mud and sand. Its major drawback is its poor performance on other seabeds and its tendency to twist and break out when the wind or tide changes. It's a great secondary or kedge anchor but not a reliable primary choice.

The Bruce Anchor: The one-piece 'Claw' anchor, developed for the North Sea oil industry, is a good all-rounder. It stows neatly and will typically reset itself with a change in direction. However, it can really struggle to penetrate weedy or grassy seabeds.

The New Breed: A True Game-Changer

Modern anchor designs, developed from advanced thinking and extensive testing, have significantly raised the bar for performance. They are designed to set rapidly, bury deeply, and remain stable under all conditions. They're a real game-changer for cruisers, offering peace of mind that was once unattainable.

The Spade Anchor: A French design from the 1990s, the Spade was specifically made to punch through the seagrass common in Mediterranean anchorages. Its two-part design is easy to stow, and its weighted tip ensures it always lands point-down, setting almost instantly. Its holding power is legendary.

The Bugel Anchor (Wasi in the US): This German design was the first to use a roll bar—a feature that ensures the anchor always lands in the correct orientation to set. It's a simple, cost-effective design that provides excellent performance.

The Rocna Anchor: In my book, the Rocna is a winner. A 44lb version sits on the bow of my own boat, Alacazam. Designed in New Zealand in 2004, it has quickly become a favourite for sailors all over the world. It combines the roll bar of the Bugel with the sophisticated fluke design of the Spade, consistently coming out on top in independent anchor tests. The newer Rocna Vulcan is a variation without the roll bar, making it compatible with a wider range of bow fittings while retaining similar holding power.

How Do I Choose The Right Anchor Size?

Sizing a sailboat anchor for your boat is a critical step, but the numbers are only a guide. While charts provide a minimum size, I've always found it wise to go one size up, especially if you plan to rely on your anchor in less-than-ideal conditions. The following table provides a general guide:

Boat Length	Anchor Weight (kg/lb)
6m / 20ft	7kg / 15lb
8m / 26ft	9kg / 20lb
9m / 30ft	12kg / 25lb
10m / 33ft	14kg / 30lb
11m / 36ft	16kg / 35lb
12m / 40ft	18kg / 40lb

What About The Anchor Windlass?

An anchor is only as good as the system that gets it in and out of the water. As someone who has pulled up a chain by hand more times than I care to remember, I can confidently say that installing an electric windlass was one of the happiest days of my cruising life. It’s not just a luxury; it’s a critical safety and comfort feature.

Choosing The Right Windlass

A properly sized windlass is essential for safe and efficient anchoring. An undersized unit will struggle to lift your ground tackle, especially when it's caked in mud, while an oversized one is a waste of money and adds unnecessary weight.

Key things to consider when choosing a windlass:

Working Load Limit (WLL): The WLL should be at least three to four times the combined weight of your anchor and the total length of chain you plan to deploy.

Motor Power & Voltage: Make sure your boat's electrical system can handle the power draw. More power means faster retrieval, which can be absolutely critical in an emergency.

Gypsy Type: The gypsy has to be a perfect match for your chain size. If you use a rope rode, make sure it’s compatible with both chain and rope.

Vertical & Horizontal Windlasses: A Quick Guide

Windlasses are generally configured in one of two ways: with a vertical or a horizontal axis. Your choice between them depends largely on the layout of your boat, the size of your anchor locker, and your personal preference for deck aesthetics.

Horizontal Windlasses

Pros: The entire unit, including the motor and gearbox, is mounted on the deck, which makes installation and maintenance much easier. They are a great choice for boats with shallow anchor lockers, as they require less vertical space for the anchor rode to fall into.

Cons: These models have a larger footprint on the deck, which some sailors find unsightly and a potential tripping hazard.

Vertical Windlasses

Pros: Most of the windlass unit is located below the deck, keeping the foredeck clean and uncluttered. This gives a sleek, low-profile look that many boat owners prefer. They're also better suited for boats with two bow rollers, as the rode can be led from either side to the gypsy more easily.

Cons: Installation is more complex and requires sufficient space in the anchor locker for the motor and gearbox. This also means that maintenance can be more difficult as it requires below-deck access.

The ultimate decision often comes down to a trade-off between aesthetics, ease of maintenance, and the space available in your anchor locker. For many, a horizontal windlass is a practical solution that prioritises function, while a vertical windlass is the cleaner, more modern choice if your boat's layout allows for it.

Remote Controls & Safety

Modern cruising boats are often run by a couple or even single-handed, so remote controls for the windlass are a must-have. Foot switches on the foredeck are a great hands-free option, but a wired or wireless remote lets you operate the windlass from the cockpit, giving you a much better view of what’s happening. Some advanced remotes even have a chain counter, which is invaluable for knowing exactly how much scope you have out.

Summing Up: The Anchor & The Sailor

Choosing the best sailboat anchor is a mix of science and a little bit of art. While the new generation of anchors has pretty much solved the problems of reliability and holding power, remember that no anchor will do its job correctly without a skilled hand on the helm and a proper anchoring technique. For a complete guide covering everything from ground tackle to advanced deployment methods, check out our definitive guide, The Definitive Guide to Anchoring a Boat. A good sailor knows their equipment's strengths and weaknesses, always errs on the side of caution with scope, and never assumes a set is a permanent one. Your anchor is your best insurance—treat it, and the system around it, with the respect it deserves.

This article was written by Dick McClary, RYA Yachtmaster and author of 'Offshore Sailing' published by the Royal Yachting Association ( RYA) and member of The Yachting Journalists Association (YJA).

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

How much anchor chain should I use?

The general rule of thumb is to use a scope of at least 5:1 (five times the depth of the water plus the freeboard to your bow roller). In poor conditions, such as high winds or a strong current, you should increase this to a 7:1 ratio or more.

Is a heavier anchor always better?

While a heavier anchor generally provides more holding power, it's not the only factor. A well-designed, modern anchor that sets and buries correctly will almost always outperform a poorly designed, heavier anchor. Anchor weight should always be matched to your boat's size and displacement.

What is a kedge anchor?

A kedge anchor is a secondary anchor, usually smaller than your primary one, that is used for specific purposes, such as anchoring from the stern to prevent swinging in a crowded anchorage or to assist in refloating a grounded vessel.

How do I know if my anchor is set properly?

After you've laid your anchor and let out the correct scope, you should apply a reverse thrust with your engine to tension the rode. Keep a visual marker on the shore and watch to see if the boat moves. If the boat's position remains steady, your anchor is likely set.

What is anchor rode?

Anchor rode is the term for the line or chain connecting your boat to the anchor. It can be all chain, all rope, or a combination of both.