Island Hopping the Virgin Islands by Sailboat

In a Nutshell...

The Virgin Islands, split between the British and U.S. territories, offer some of the best cruising in the Caribbean thanks to their proximity and sheltered waters. We'll show you how to navigate them as a sailor, exploring everything from the legendary party spots of the BVIs to the tranquil anchorages of the USVIs.

Map of the BVIs, by kind permission of the Superyacht Services Guide

Sailing the British Virgin Islands (BVIs)
Sailing the U.S. Virgin Islands (USVIs)
Provisioning & Yacht Services
Safety & Navigation
Local Culture & Cuisine
Summing Up
Frequently Asked Questions

The Virgin Islands are a sailor's dream, a cluster of islands so close to one another you can practically hop between them in a day. Having sailed from Anguilla through the Leeward & Windward Islands, the Virgin Islands were the next logical step on our journey. The British Virgin Islands (BVIs) and the American Virgin Islands (USVIs) are distinct territories, but they share a beautiful, protected cruising ground that offers something for every kind of sailor. From the vibrant anchorages and bustling beach bars to secluded bays and quiet national parks, this guide will help you get to grips with what to expect.

Sailing the British Virgin Islands (BVIs)

The BVIs are a real playground for sailors, and it's easy to see why. The islands are close together, offering short, pleasant passages that are perfect for a relaxed pace. We arrived from St Maarten and chose to enter the BVIs through the Round Rock Passage, a common route that brings you to the southern part of Virgin Gorda.

Currency: US dollar ($)

Official Language: English

Ports of Entry

Virgin Gorda: Spanish Town & Gun Creek.
Jost van Dyke: Government Dock in Great Harbour.
Tortola: Road Town & the West End (Soper's Hole).

A word of caution: You'll want to head straight for a port of entry to clear in. Remember to fly your yellow 'Q' flag until you're formally checked in. And here’s a tip from experience: anchoring on coral is a definite no-go. The fines are huge, and rightly so—it's vital we protect these fragile ecosystems.

Our Route & Key Anchorages

Heading north along Virgin Gorda's west coast, we cleared in at Spanish Town. While we anchored and took the dinghy in, there are plenty of moorings available.

Next, we sailed to Gorda Sound (also known as North Sound). This area is a protected, reef-fringed sound with several anchorages and plenty of activity. We found it a challenge to find an empty spot to anchor among all the charter boats and commercial moorings. As long-term cruisers, we try to avoid paying the mooring fees where we can, so it's always best to arrive early in the day.

One spot you absolutely can't miss is The Baths . This surreal collection of gigantic granite boulders, rock pools, and sandy beaches is a sight to behold. It's a national park and anchoring is prohibited, so you'll have to grab one of the marine park moorings for a daytime visit.

We had planned to sail north to Anegada, but the wind conditions made a broad reach to Norman Island a much more enjoyable option. Norman Island is famous for being the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island. Its main anchorage, 'The Bight', is popular and well-sheltered, though heavily populated with mooring buoys. For a quieter experience, we found Benures Bay just around the corner, a tranquil spot with no moorings, bars, or restaurants.

From Norman Island, we made for Tortola, the largest of the BVIs. We found Soper's Hole to be full and continued on to Cane Garden Bay. After a brisk beat to windward, we picked up a mooring in the middle of the bay. The beach has plenty of bars and restaurants, and we particularly enjoyed "De Wedding Beach Bar & Restaurant."

We also explored inland, taking a local bus to the capital, Road Town. It's a full-service marina hub, but we decided against sailing there, as the lure of Jost van Dyke was just too strong.

Jost van Dyke: Home of the Painkiller

Jost van Dyke, named after a 17th-century Dutch pirate, quickly became our favourite island. We dropped the hook in Great Harbour, another port of entry. The shore is dotted with excellent bars and restaurants, including the legendary Foxy’s Bar.

From Great Harbour, a walk along a track leads you to White Bay. This bay is equally bustling, but its claim to fame is the Soggy Dollar Bar, where the "Painkiller" cocktail was first concocted. This drink is a classic for a reason!

Painkiller Cocktail Recipe

The 'Painkiller' is a blend of rum (traditionally Pusser's Rum) with 4 parts pineapple juice, 1 part cream of coconut and 1 part orange juice served on the rocks with a generous amount of fresh nutmeg on top.

You have a choice of #2, #3 or #4, which designate the amount of rum.

Painkiller #2: 2 parts rum;
Painkiller #3: 3 parts rum;
Painkiller #4: 4 parts rum;
Painkiller #5? Don't even think about it!

Conscious of the walk back to Great Harbour, we stayed with the low-octane (relatively) version!

We also enjoyed the quieter Little Harbour before hiking to Foxy’s Taboo at East End Harbour. This anchorage was peaceful and secluded—a real gem.

Before we knew it, it was time to leave the BVIs. We sailed back to Virgin Gorda to check out before beginning our passage back to the Leeward Islands.

Sailing the U.S. Virgin Islands (USVIs)

Although we didn't sail there on this trip, the USVIs are a fantastic destination in their own right. They offer a slightly different sailing experience than the BVIs, with longer passages between islands, but they are just as rewarding.

The USVIs comprise three main islands: St. Thomas, St. John, and St. Croix, as well as several smaller cays. St. John is a particularly popular destination for cruisers, with most of the island designated as a national park. The USVIs are a great choice if you're looking for a mix of vibrant towns and untouched natural beauty.

Map of the USVIs, by kind permission of the Superyacht Services Guide

The above maps of the BVIs and the USVIs are reproduced here with the kind permission of their creators 'Superyacht Publications Ltd' and are taken from their super-useful Superyacht Services Guides for the Caribbean in which they make recommendations for all yachting services in each of the islands.

A Note on Entry Formalities

Here’s a crucial bit of information that can make or break your trip: a non-U.S. citizen cannot make their first entry into the U.S. or its territories by private yacht without a valid visa. If you're a British or European sailor, you must first enter the U.S. by commercial carrier (like a plane or a ferry) and be admitted under the Visa Waiver Program (ESTA) for a maximum of 90 days before you can sail in on your own vessel. It's a non-reciprocal arrangement, as U.S. citizens can visit the BVIs without any such restrictions. This is a significant point for any experienced sailor planning their itinerary.

Provisioning & Yacht Services

For cruisers, resupplying is a top priority. In the BVIs, the main islands of Tortola and Virgin Gorda offer the best options. In Road Town, Tortola, you'll find large supermarkets like Riteway and OneMart where you can get most of your supplies. Many charter companies also offer pre-ordering services, so you can have your boat fully stocked before you even arrive. If you're in the USVIs, Charlotte Amalie on St. Thomas is the main hub for provisioning, with supermarkets and marine supply stores readily available.

Safety & Navigation

While the Virgin Islands are known for being a relatively safe cruising ground, a good sailor never takes anything for granted. Navigational charts and a reliable chartplotter are essential. The cruising area is dotted with reefs and shoals, and while many are well-marked, some are not. Always be on the lookout for coral heads, especially when entering an unfamiliar bay.

Another key point is to plan for the weather. The trade winds are generally consistent, but squalls can pop up quickly. During hurricane season (June to November), it's vital to have a plan in place to get to a hurricane hole or prepare for an extended passage. As a Yachtmaster, I can't stress enough how important it is to have a good weather forecast and a contingency plan. For a deeper understanding of navigating these types of waters and other key sailing knowledge, you may find our comprehensive guide to [Sailing in the Caribbean: Information for Skippers & Crew] particularly useful. A thorough boat check before each passage is also non-negotiable—engine, sails, rigging, and safety equipment should be inspected regularly.

Local Culture & Cuisine

Sailing isn't just about the journey; it's about immersing yourself in the local culture. The food and music are a huge part of the experience here. The cuisine is a fantastic fusion of African, European, and indigenous influences.

One must-try dish in the BVIs is fish and fungi, the national dish. Despite the name, fungi isn't a mushroom; it's a hearty cornmeal and okra mash, usually served with a fresh fish like red snapper. You'll also find conch fritters, callaloo soup, and roti—a flatbread stuffed with curried meats or vegetables, brought to the islands by Indian workers. Anegada is particularly famous for its grilled Caribbean lobster, and it's something you simply have to try. These culinary experiences add a rich layer to the sailing adventure and connect you to the history of the islands.

Summing Up

The British and U.S. Virgin Islands offer two distinct but equally enchanting sailing experiences. The BVIs are perfect for relaxed, short-hop sailing with an abundance of anchorages and a lively beach bar culture. The USVIs, with their longer passages and national park status, appeal to those who want to combine a sailing adventure with exploration of pristine natural landscapes. Both territories are a testament to the Caribbean's enduring allure for sailors and cruisers alike.

This article was written by Dick McClary, RYA Yachtmaster and author of 'Offshore Sailing' published by the Royal Yachting Association ( RYA) and member of The Yachting Journalists Association (YJA).

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: What's the best time of year to sail the Virgin Islands?

The peak sailing season is from December to April, which is the dry season with steady trade winds and cooler temperatures. The hurricane season runs from June to November.

Q2: Is it better to sail the BVIs or the USVIs?

The BVIs are generally considered more beginner-friendly with shorter, line-of-sight passages between islands. The USVIs offer longer sails, which can be more rewarding for experienced sailors looking to stretch their legs.

Q3: Are there many anchorages in the Virgin Islands?

Yes, both territories have a vast number of anchorages, but be aware that many popular spots in the BVIs are dominated by commercial mooring buoys, which can make finding a spot to anchor a challenge.

Q4: Can you move freely between the British & U.S. Virgin Islands?

No, they are separate countries. You must formally clear out of one territory and clear into the other at a designated port of entry. Non-U.S. citizens sailing on private vessels face additional entry restrictions into the USVIs.

Q5: What are the main differences between the two territories?

The BVIs have a stronger British influence and a relaxed, "barefoot" vibe, with an economy heavily focused on yacht chartering. The USVIs have a blend of American and Caribbean culture and are generally more developed, particularly St. Thomas.