Sizing, Selecting & Maintaining Your Anchor Windlass

In a Nutshell...

An anchor windlass is an essential piece of equipment that makes anchoring easier and safer. When choosing an anchor windlass, you need to consider your boat's size, the weight of your anchor and rode, and your sailing habits. The primary decision is between a vertical or horizontal windlass, followed by the power source (manual, electric, or hydraulic). Proper maintenance, including regular inspection of the motor, gears, and chain gypsy, is crucial for its longevity and reliable operation.

A horizontal axis anchor windlass installed in the chain locker, giving it protection from seawater spray and an occasional dunking.

Some manufacturers choose to instal the windlass below the deck

So, What Exactly is a Windlass?
How Do I Pick the Right Windlass for My Boat?
How to Keep Your Windlass Working Sweetly
Summing Up
Frequently Asked Questions

So, What Exactly is a Windlass?

In simple terms, an anchor windlass is a powered winch designed specifically for raising and lowering your boat's anchor. On a small dinghy, you can pull the anchor by hand, no sweat. But on anything over, say, 30 feet, a windlass becomes a godsend. It takes the back-breaking strain out of hauling up a heavy anchor and all that chain, especially when you're in a hurry or battling a bit of a breeze.

It's a common mistake to think of it as just a big winch. While a windlass does pull, it's engineered for the unique, vertical load of an anchor rode. Whether it’s driven by electricity, a hydraulic system, or even by hand, its purpose is to make anchoring a controlled and, frankly, much more civilised affair.

How Do I Pick the Right Windlass for My Boat?

Getting the right fit here is non-negotiable. I've seen too many sailors go for a model that's just a bit too small, only to find themselves struggling in a sticky situation. My advice is always to over-spec it slightly. You won't regret the extra pulling power when you’re trying to break your anchor free from a clay seabed.

1. Tallying Up Your Ground Tackle

This is the big one. Your ground tackle is everything from your anchor to your chain and the rope that connects it all. A good rule of thumb is that your windlass should be able to lift three times the total weight of your anchor and the heaviest part of your rode.

Let's do the maths. Say you’ve got a 25 kg anchor and 30 metres of 10mm chain, which weighs about 2.3 kg per metre. That’s roughly 94 kg of tackle. Your windlass should have a working load of at least 282 kg. But that's just the start; you'll also want to look at its maximum pull, which should be four or five times the working load. This extra muscle is for those times when your anchor is well and truly dug in.

2. Vertical or Horizontal? The Age-Old Question

This choice usually comes down to your boat's deck layout and how your anchor locker is set up.

A vertical axis anchor windlass with a warping drum on top

A vertical axis version

A horizontal axis anchor windlass with a warping drum and a useful cleat on top

A horizontal axis version

Vertical Windlass: The motor is tucked away below deck, leaving just the 'gypsy' (that’s the wheel that grabs the chain) on deck.

Pros: It’s neat and tidy on deck and keeps the motor safe and dry. It’s also very efficient, as the chain drops straight down into the locker.
Cons: You need enough room below decks for the motor, and your chain locker has to be deep enough for the chain to fall in a heap without jamming.

Horizontal Windlass: The whole shebang—motor and all—is mounted on deck.

Pros: It's generally easier to install since it's a single unit. It's also more forgiving when it comes to the angle of the chain feed.
Cons: It takes up more space on deck, and the whole unit is exposed to all the wind and waves the sea can throw at it.

3. Powering Your Pull: Manual, Electric or Hydraulic?

Manual Windlass: Simple, old-school, and operated with a handle.

Pros: It’s simple, bulletproof, and doesn't need a single electron. Perfect for small boats or as a backup.
Cons: It's a real workout, especially in deep water.

Electric Windlass: The most popular choice for cruisers. They run off your boat's 12V or 24V batteries.

Pros: Quick, easy, and saves your back.
Cons: They draw a lot of power, so you'll need good, thick wiring and a dedicated circuit breaker to handle the load.

Hydraulic Windlass: Think of these as the big beasts, usually for larger yachts and commercial vessels.

Pros: Exceptionally powerful and built to last.
Cons: They're complex, expensive, and need a separate hydraulic pump, which is often run from the engine. For most of us, they're simply overkill.

How to Keep Your Windlass Working Sweetly

Regular maintenance is the key to a happy windlass. A little effort here will save you a world of pain later.

Hose It Down: After every use, give your windlass a good rinse with fresh water to get rid of all that salt and grit.

Check the Rode: Have a close look at your chain and rope for any signs of wear, kinks or twists.

Keep it Greasy: Follow the manufacturer's manual and give the gear mechanism and bearings a dollop of grease or oil to keep things running smoothly.

Electrical TLC: For electric models, check all the connections regularly. Loose or corroded wires are the number one cause of windlass failure.

Clean Out the Locker: Make sure your chain locker is clean and the chain can fall freely. A tangled mess below deck is a recipe for a jam.

Visual Check: Keep an eye out for any loose bolts, cracks, or other signs of wear and tear.

Feature	Vertical Windlass	Horizontal Windlass
Deck Footprint	Small & unobtrusive	Larger & more prominent
Motor Location	Below deck	On deck, part of the main unit
Rode Feed	Efficient 90-degree drop	Can accept various angles
Installation	More complex due to below-deck components	Generally simpler
Vulnerability to Elements	Low - motor is protected	High - entire unit is exposed

Summing Up

A good windlass isn't just a convenience; it's a piece of safety gear. By taking the time to choose the right size and type for your boat and then looking after it properly, you're not only making your life easier but also ensuring a safer time on the water. Ultimately, a reliable windlass means less faffing about and more time enjoying the freedom of the sea.

For all other aspects of dropping the hook, take a look at our article The Definitive Guide to Anchoring a Boat.

This article was written by Dick McClary, RYA Yachtmaster and author of 'Offshore Sailing' published by the Royal Yachting Association ( RYA) and member of The Yachting Journalists Association (YJA).

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a windlass to pull my boat?

Absolutely not. A windlass is built to lift the anchor and its weight straight up. Using it to pull your boat sideways will wreck the gears, the motor, or the deck fittings. Always use your boat's engine or sails to move toward the anchor point.

What's the difference between a windlass and a winch?

A winch is a general pulling device, like the ones you use to hoist sails. A windlass is a specialised piece of kit with a grooved wheel (a gypsy) made for lifting anchor chain or rope.

How do I know if my windlass motor is on its way out?

Look out for these tell-tale signs:

The motor runs, but the chain doesn't move.
It's slow or keeps cutting out.
The motor gets a bit too hot to touch.
It starts making strange grinding or whining noises.

Do I need a windlass with both a gypsy and a capstan?

The gypsy is for your chain, and the capstan is for pulling rope. If you've got a combination rode (part chain, part rope), then a model with both is a good idea. For an all-chain rode, you only need the gypsy.

What are the main parts of a windlass?

The key bits are the motor, the gearbox that gives it the pulling power, the gypsy for the chain, the capstan for rope, and the clutch, which lets you free-fall the anchor.