Choosing the Best Anchor Chain for Your Cruising Boat

In a Nutshell...

Getting to grips with anchor chain can feel a bit overwhelming, but it doesn't have to be. For years, BBB anchor chain has been the standard for sailors, but it's not the be-all and end-all. The truth is, modern High-Test chains offer a massive upgrade in strength while being lighter to boot. Switching to one can not only give you a better safety margin but also improve your boat's performance by taking some weight out of the bow. It's a game-changer, and it's well worth looking into.

What's the Deal with Different Anchor Chain Types?
Is Stainless Steel Anchor Chain a Good Idea?
How to Pick the Right Anchor Chain for Your Boat
Other Types of Anchor Rode
Getting the Right Size & Length
Key Accessories: Snubbers & Chain Markers
Costing up Anchor Chain
Summing Up
Frequently Asked Questions

What's the Deal with Different Anchor Chain Types?

If you're out at sea, your anchor chain is a pretty vital piece of kit and is graded based on the steel it's made from and how it's put together. Knowing the difference between the various grages is the first step to making a smart choice for your boat. The main players are Proof Coil, BBB, and High-Test.

Proof Coil Anchor Chain (Grade 30)

This is the most basic welded steel chain out there. It's made from low-carbon steel and is strong enough for some jobs, but here's the kicker: it's not calibrated. That means it's not a good fit for most modern windlasses. You'll mainly see this on smaller boats where the rode is pulled up by hand, often as part of a rope-and-chain setup.

Size (Inches)	Wt/100ft (lbs)	SWL (lbs)
1/4"	72	1,325
5/16"	113	1,950
3/8"	165	2,750
1/2"	272	4,750

BBB Anchor Chain (Grade 30)

This is the one most of us are familiar with. It's also made from low-carbon steel, just like Proof Coil, but it's a cut above because the links are shorter and it’s calibrated to fit a windlass gypsy. For a long time, this was the go-to for cruising sailors, and it's still a solid, if somewhat weighty, choice. Most BBB chains are hot-dip galvanised for corrosion protection, but keep an eye out as some cheaper options might just be electro-plated.

High-Test Anchor Chain (Grades 40, 43 & 70)

Now we're getting into the good stuff. High-Test chain is made from higher-grade steel with more carbon and manganese, which makes it much stronger.

Grade 43: This is what most folks use for yacht anchoring these days. It's a good chunk stronger than BBB chain and is a touch lighter, which is a big plus. Its short-link design makes it super flexible and a perfect match for windlasses.

Grade 70: Also known as 'transport chain,' this is the strongest of the lot. It’s made from the same steel as Grade 43 but gets an extra heat treatment to boost its strength. It’s the lightest option for its strength, but you'll have to weigh up whether the higher cost is worth it. Plus, re-galvanising it can be a bit of a minefield because the heat can mess with the steel. In all honesty, re-galvanising is rarely a cost-effective choice for Grade 70 anyway.

	Grade 43		Grade 70
Size (Inches)	Wt/100ft (lbs)	SWL (lbs)	Wt/100ft (lbs)	SWL (lbs)
1/4"	69	2,600	74	3,150
5/16"	100	3,900	103	4,700
3/8"	145	5,400	145	6,600
1/2"	234	9,200	264	11,300

Chain Type	Material	Calibration	Key Characteristics	Suitable For...
Proof Coil	Low Carbon Steel	No	Lowest grade, not calibrated.	Hand-hauled rodes on small boats.
BBB	Low Carbon Steel	Yes	The classic choice, calibrated, but on the heavier side.	General cruising, where weight isn't the number one concern.
High-Test (Grade 43)	Higher Carbon Steel	Yes	Lighter, way stronger, and super flexible.	Performance cruising, long-distance voyaging, and cutting down bow weight.
High-Test (Grade 70)	Higher Carbon Steel (Heat-Treated)	Yes	The strongest for its weight.	Extreme conditions, racing, or when every ounce of weight counts.

Is Stainless Steel Anchor Chain a Good Idea?

While a shiny stainless steel anchor can look fantastic, pairing it with a galvanised steel chain is just asking for trouble. When you put different metals in contact with each other in seawater, which is a great electrolyte, you get galvanic corrosion. This process will quickly eat away at the weaker metal. I've seen the damage it can cause first-hand, and it's not pretty. Honestly, it's far better to stick with a galvanised anchor and a matching galvanised chain. Leave the flashy stainless stuff to the powerboaters who don't spend much time at anchor.

How to Pick the Right Anchor Chain for Your Boat

Choosing the right chain is all about finding the right balance. Let's run through a quick scenario. Say you have a 40-foot ocean-going boat with 200 feet of old, tired 3/8" BBB anchor chain. You've got a few choices to make:

Just replace it with the same chain: Easy peasy, but you're missing a trick when it comes to modern materials.
Go for High-Test chain of the same size: A 3/8" Grade 43 chain is way stronger (5,400 lbs SWL) than the old 3/8" BBB chain (2,750 lbs SWL) and slightly lighter. That gives you a massive safety cushion without a weight penalty.
Step down to a smaller size High-Test chain: If you want the same strength as your old 3/8" BBB chain, you could go down to a 5/16" Grade 43 chain, which has a Safe Working Load of 3,900 lbs. That shaves about 30% off the weight in the bow (from 165 lbs to 100 lbs per 100 feet). Less weight in the bow means less pitching in a seaway and a better ride all around.
Carry more chain without adding weight: By dropping down to a lighter High-Test chain, you can carry a longer length of chain while keeping the same or even less weight in your chain locker. This is a brilliant option, as a longer rode is a huge factor in getting a solid, secure anchor set.

I can still recall the moment I switched from a BBB chain to Grade 43 on my own boat. The difference in the way she handled was genuinely noticeable. The reduced weight in the bow really cut down on the pitching motion, making for a much more comfortable passage. That personal experience really drove home how much a seemingly small change can affect a boat's handling and the comfort of the crew.

When selecting your ground tackle, the anchor chain is just one part of a critical system. For a comprehensive guide to all aspects of anchoring, including types of anchors and best practices for setting and retrieving, be sure to consult our definitive guide to anchoring a boat.

Other Types of Anchor Rode

While this article is all about all-chain rodes, it’s worth remembering that a lot of boats out there use a mix of rope and chain, or even just rope. A rope and chain rode is a good compromise, giving you the shock absorption of rope with the abrasion resistance and catenary of a short bit of chain right at the anchor. It’s lighter than an all-chain setup, which is a plus for smaller boats or for anyone looking to shed some weight.

Getting the Right Size & Length

The strength and length of your anchor chain are absolutely essential for a safe night at anchor. The right size is dictated by your boat's size, weight, and windage, as these factors determine the safe working load (SWL) your gear needs to handle. While we all learned the rules of thumb for rode length, a more modern approach takes into account real-world variables like wind strength, the type of bottom you're anchoring in, and how much the tide will change. A longer rode gives your anchor a better angle to bite into the seabed and lets the weight of the chain (the catenary) work as a built-in shock absorber. You'll find a more detailed look at this topic in our dedicated article on choosing the right anchor rode length.

Key Accessories: Snubbers & Chain Markers

Using your anchor chain properly also involves a couple of accessories you can't do without. A chain snubber is a length of nylon line that connects the chain to a deck cleat. It does two very important things: it takes the strain off your windlass, preventing damage, and it soaks up shocks from wind gusts and waves, making for a much quieter and more peaceful time at anchor.

Chain markers are simple but non-negotiable for anyone anchoring regularly. These are those little coloured plastic tags or bits of paint you put on the chain every 10 metres or so. They give you a quick visual on how much chain you've let out, which is a big help when you're figuring out your scope. You can get the full rundown on these bits of kit in our article on using a snubber and marking your chain.

A Word on Swivel Connectors

It’s worth talking about swivel connectors, as they’re a common piece of kit that can cause a few headaches. They are almost always made from stainless steel, and when you connect one to a galvanised anchor and chain, you’re creating a perfect setup for galvanic corrosion. The galvanising (zinc) will get eaten away at an accelerated rate to protect the more noble stainless steel, creating a weak point in your ground tackle. For this reason, many sailors avoid them altogether, opting instead for a simple, robust galvanised shackle. If you do use a swivel, it's best to connect it to the chain using a galvanised shackle, which will serve as a sacrificial anode.

Costing up Anchor Chain

When you’re weighing up your options, the price is always a big consideration. Sure, a metre of High-Test Grade 43 or Grade 70 chain costs more than the equivalent BBB chain. But when you look at the big picture, the total cost can be pretty similar, or even less, if you can drop to a smaller diameter High-Test chain to get the same or better strength. It's always a good idea to get a couple of quotes before you make your final decision.

Summing Up

While BBB anchor chain has done a sterling job for sailors for decades, it's not the top dog anymore. Modern High-Test chains, especially Grade 43, are a much better bet, offering a fantastic strength-to-weight ratio. By making the switch, you can either boost your safety margin with the same size chain or lighten the load in your bow by going a size smaller. Either way, you'll see a real improvement in your boat's performance and comfort. It’s a simple change that can make a massive difference to your cruising life.

This article was written by Dick McClary, RYA Yachtmaster and author of 'Offshore Sailing' published by the Royal Yachting Association ( RYA) and member of The Yachting Journalists Association (YJA).

Frequently Asked Questions

What exactly is "calibrated chain"?

Calibrated chain has links that are all the same size and pitch. This is crucial because it means they'll fit perfectly into your anchor windlass gypsy, making sure everything runs smoothly and reliably.

Can I mix different types of chain?

Short answer: don't do it. Mixing different types or grades of chain on a single rode is a big no-no. It can create weak points in the system and is a recipe for trouble with your windlass.

When should I re-galvanise my chain?

How often you need to re-galvanise depends on how much you use it and the environment you're in. It's a pricey job, and it’s important to have a professional check the chain's integrity first. For most cruising sailors, it's often more economical to just replace the chain when it starts to show signs of serious wear.

What's the problem with a heavy bow?

A boat's movement in waves is a lot like a seesaw. If you've got a lot of weight in the bow (like a heavy chain locker), the boat will pitch more severely in a seaway. This makes for a less comfortable ride and can even slow the boat down.

Why is a longer anchor rode better?

The longer the rode, the better the angle on your anchor, which helps it set and hold better. Plus, the weight of the chain hanging in the water (the catenary) acts like a spring, absorbing shock loads from wind and waves and reducing the strain on your anchor.