Getting the Best from your Roller Furling Jib

Like most cruising sailors, I'm a big fan of the roller furling jib. Not only are they a convenient way of getting rid of the jib at the end of a passage, they enable us to easily adjust the headsail area to suit the prevailing conditions.

A 'Bottom-Up' jib furler

And whilst it's undeniably true that a partially furled genoa will never be quite as efficient as a hanked-on jib of the same size, for the cruising sailor the small performance loss is balanced by convenience and safety offered by roller furling systems.

I suppose some gung-ho types revel in changing hanked-on foresails in the dark on a pitching foredeck in a rising gale. I don't—never did, come to think of it—and don't know anyone who does.

So to all manufacturers of roller furling jib systems—thank you!

Most of us cruising types are happy with bottom-up furlers, typical for genoas and jibs, where the sail furls from the tack upwards. But for larger yachts, or for those who simply appreciate the ultimate in convenience, electric or hydraulic furling systems are increasingly common.

An electric jib furler

Imagine pressing a button and watching your sail furl or unfurl effortlessly; this dramatically reduces the physical effort required, making sailing more accessible and safer, especially when single-handing or with a less experienced crew. These systems integrate seamlessly with modern yacht electronics, often allowing remote operation.

Then there are continuous line furlers, primarily designed for sails like Code Zeros or asymmetric spinnakers. Unlike traditional drum furlers where the furling line has a defined start and end, continuous line systems use a closed loop, offering very smooth and rapid furling, crucial for these high-performance, light-wind sails. This opens up a new dimension of sail handling for cruising sailors who want to maximize light air performance without the hassle of a traditional dousing sock.

Looking After Your Roller Furling Jib

While a freshwater rinse is excellent for flushing out salt crystals, modern systems, particularly those with internal bearings, require more specific attention. Regularly, perhaps annually, you should inspect the furling drum and swivel for any signs of wear or damage.

Many modern furlers have sealed bearings that require no lubrication, but some older or specific models might have grease points – always refer to your specific furler’s manual..

Crucially, pay attention to the forestay tension. The furler is built around the forestay, and proper tension is vital for the system to operate smoothly and for the sail to set correctly. Too little tension can lead to sag, hindering furling and sail shape.

You’ll want to look out for subtle signs of wear on the furling line itself – fraying or stiffness indicates it’s time for replacement before it becomes a problem at sea.

Improving Roller Reefing Efficiency

Some roller furling systems incorporate a double swivel arrangement which puts a full roll into the middle of the sail before the rotation is taken up by the head and the tack.

This goes some way towards removing the fullness that would otherwise be present in the partially rolled sail.

Sailmakers have done their bit, too, by building a foam insert into the luff which similarly flattens a partially rolled headsail. But it has to be said that whilst this improves the sail shape, the bulking of the sail around the foil disturbs the airflow over the luff of the sail - which can only reduce drive.

Avoiding Roller Reefing Foul-Ups

The most common problem is not one of equipment failure, but one of incorrect set-up.

If the luff of the sail is much shorter than the foil, the halyard can - and according to Murphy, undoubtedly will - get twisted around the foil comprehensively jamming up the works.

Headsail Roller Reefing Jam - The Problem

The halyard is almost guaranteed to wrap itself around the foil

Headsail Roller Reefing Jam - The Solution

Much better. Wrap issue averted!

Prevention is quite simple - a short wire strop between the top swivel and the head of the sail.

Now the exposed length of the halyard is too short to wrap around the foil, and will prevent the top section of the swivel turning.

And what if things go wrong that aren't a simple halyard wrap? If your furler becomes stiff to operate, or the sail doesn't furl smoothly, first check the halyard tension – too much or too little can cause issues.

Ensure the furling line is running freely through all fairleads and clutches, and that there are no kinks or twists.

If the sail is reluctant to furl, try easing the sheet slightly as you pull the furling line; sometimes excessive sheet tension is the culprit.

A common issue can be the furling line becoming wrapped around the drum unevenly, causing it to jam; carefully unwinding and re-leading it can often solve this.

Persistent stiffness might indicate an issue with the internal bearings, which usually requires professional attention.

But if your gear does jam for some reason - a seized upper or lower bearing, for example - and you can't furl the sail, then here's what to do:

sheet in the mainsail, or lower it, then

take one jib sheet off, then

coil the other and take it right forward, then

motor the sailboat around in tight circles, passing the coil around the forestay until the sail is furled.

Adjusting the Sheeting Angle

Headsail roller reefing sheet position adjustment

You must adjust the sheet lead as you reef the genoa

Deck-sweeping genoas are not wonderful on a cruising boat if you're at all interested in what's going on ahead; nor do they work well with furling gear unless you're happy to move the jib sheet traveler every time you adjust the furler.

It's a geometry thing, the jib sheet must pull equally along the foot of the sail and the leech, or the shape of the sail will be distorted.

To check if you've got the jib sheet traveller in the correct position to achieve this, try luffing up while watching the tell-tales in the luff:

if the upper tell-tales break before the lower ones, then the jib sheet car is too far forward;

if the lower tell-tales break before the upper ones, then the jib sheet car is too far aft;

when all tell-tales break at the same time, then you've got the car in the right position.

You'll find that a sail with a higher clew, like a yankee in a cutter rig, will enable the headsail to be rolled progressively without having to adjust the position of the car.

Whilst on the subject of cutters, my choice is not to have a roller furling gear on the staysail. If you stick with a hanked-on staysail, it can be easily replaced by a hanked-on storm jib when conditions demand it.

And whether you sail in arctic waters, the tropics, or anywhere in between, a sacrificial strip is essential to protect the sail from UV damage when fully furled.